- Ensure appropriate safety glasses and clothing are worn at all times before installing or removing your battery
- Always refer to Vehicles Operating Manual before removing or installing a battery
- Check bonnet clearance before installing battery.
- Connect memory minder (to avoid the loss of radio pin codes and key vehicle data). Keys must be removed from the vehicle.
- Locate the positive terminal and mark polarity on the cable.
- Remove the negative cable first..
- Remove the positive terminal. Remove battery hold down.
- Inspect the tray for corrosion. If necessary, dust off corrosive residue.
- Place the new battery in the tray and ensure the battery is level and the terminal posts are in the same position as the old battery.
- Replace the hold down clamp and ensure battery is secure.
- Replace the positive terminal lead and tighten.
- Replace the negative terminal lead and tighten. (The negative terminal should always be replaced last)
- Never tighten or hammer terminal onto the battery as this can damage the posts and battery cover and will void the warranty
The following charging rates and times assume a fully discharged condition.
|RESERVE CAPACITY (RC)
Expressed in minuted and found on battery type label
|Up to 75 mins||15 hrs @ 3 amps|
|75 mins to 130 mins||21 hrs @ 4 amps|
|130 mins to 180 mins||22 hrs @ 5 amps|
|180 mins to 250 mins||23 hrs @ 6 amps|
|Above 250 mins||24 hrs @ 10 amps|
Many chargers available will automatically adjust to discharged condition and commence with a boost charge gradually changing to suit the battery condition and then switching off at the fully charged rate. If not an automatic switch mode charger use the above as a guide.
- Incorrect or under-specified battery type fitted to car
- Charge system problem (low or high voltage) creating an over-charge or under-charge situation. A low voltage cause the battery to sulphate whilst a high voltage will literally cook the internal components of the battery.
- Repeated deep discharge (heavy accessory loads, car phones, lighting, boat accessories, etc)
- Prolonged storage of the car or very minimal use. A battery will generally sulphate and will never recover its full state of charge.
- Electrical faults (short, excessive loads)
- Any battery modifications such as acid additives, lead terminal changes, or any other contaminates.
- Damage to the battery caused by the consumer or other in-car fault.
|Passenger Vehicle||Extreme||36 month / 60,000 kms||42 month / 70,000 kms|
|Passenger Vehicle||Heavy Duty||24 month / 40,000 kms||30 month / 50,000 kms|
|Passenger Vehicle||Economy||12 month / 20,000 kms||18 month / 30,000 kms|
|SUV/4WD/Light Commercial||Extreme||24 month / 100,000 kms||30 month / 125,000 kms|
|SUV/4WD/Light Commercial||Heavy Duty||18 month / 100,000 kms||24 month / 100,000 kms|
|SUV/4WD/Light Commercial||Economy||12 month / 50,000 kms||18 month / 75,000 kms|
|Heavy Commercial||Extreme||18 month / 75,000 kms||24 month / 100,000 kms|
|Heavy Commercial||Heavy Duty||18 month / 75,000 kms||24 month / 100,000 kms|
|Heavy Commercial||Economy||6 month / 25,000 kms||12 month / 50,000 kms|
|Evolution||12 month / 20,000 kms||18 month / 30,000 kms|
|Stowaway Leisure Cycle||Silver||12 month||18 month|
|Stowaway Leisure Cycle||Gold||18 month||24 month|
|Stowaway Marine Starting||12 month||18 month|
|Stowaway Marine Dual Purpose||18 month||24 month|
|Stowaway Marine Cycling||18 month||24 month|
|Semi-Industrial Cycling||6 month||N/A|
|Heavy Industrial Cycling||12 month||N/A|
|GEL Cycling||12 month||N/A|
|AGM GEL Cycling||12 month||N/A|
|Pro-Series VRLA||12 months|
|Powerider Bike||12 months|
- Charge Rates
- Excessive Vibration
- High Loads
- Electrical System Faults
- Faulty Terminals
- Stop/Start Motoring
No. But properly charging a deep cycle battery is a very important factor which can affect battery performance and life.
- Do store your battery in cool dry conditions
- Do use Marshall’s professional network of stores
- Do trickle charge your stored batteries at regular intervals
- Do use correct lifting procedures when moving batteries
- Don’t place metal objects on top of the battery
- Don’t allow sparks or flames near any battery
First, you should check the motorcycle owner's manual for proper size and minimum recommended cranking amps. You can also consult a battery application guide by looking up correct make, model, year, and CCs to determine the proper size for your vehicle. Never use a battery with a lower capacity rating than is recommended by the manufacturer. Using a battery with a higher capacity is never detrimental, and is recommended for older motorcycles, to improve starting and provide longer life for your bike battery. The increased rating will not affect the starting and charging system. Contact us for New Zealand Battery advice, we are here to help.
- Connect the positive [+] cable to positive post of discharged battery.
- Connect other end of the same cable to same marked post (positive)
- Connect second cable (negative [-] ) to other post of booster battery.
- Make the final connection on the engine block of the stalled vehicle away from the battery. Stand back.
- Start vehicle and remove cables in reverse order. Incorrectly jumpstarting your vehicle can lead to damage to the battery and/or engine management system - so leave it to the experts and Holler for a Marshall!
- Alternator - the mechanical device driven by one of the engine belts. It produces a steady flow of electrical current on a continuing basis while the engine is running.
- Voltage Regulator - monitors the state-of-charge in the battery to determine when and if more current should flow from the alternator into the battery to replace used electricity. When a battery is returned to full capacity, the regulator shuts off the flow of current from the alternator. This action occurs several times per minute.
- Battery - an electrical reservoir used to store current until it is needed to power the engine ís starter motor. It provides sufficient electrical power, so the engine can reach starting RPMs. Once the engine is running, the electrical demand is supplied by the alternator alone to the coil, which continues to supply fire to the spark plugs. A simple analogy for a charging system is to compare it to a garden hose with a spray nozzle and a bucket/receptacle. Water flows through a garden hose as does the electrical current to the alternator. As long as the water/current is flowing, the hose/alternator is producing electrical current to charge the battery. The regulator, compared to the spray nozzle at the end of the hose, determines the amount of the electrical current released into the battery. The battery becomes the bucket/receptacle already filled with water. When water is removed from the bucket, the spray nozzle/regulator will open to allow water/electrical current to refill the bucket, or recharge the battery. Once the battery is completely recharged, the regulator will shut off the flow.
There are a number of factors to consider when determining how often a battery needs to be replaced. These include vehicle type, region or climate, and driving habits. If your current battery performance is unsatisfactory, you may need to upgrade your battery to suit your particular situation and needs.